Turnips for the well-heeled set.

Is there a root vegetable out there with a less decadent reputation than that pale (sometimes blushing) wallflower, the turnip?  Generally, it flies well below the radar of even the most ardent vegetable consumers; a solid choice for a mash or a hash, but as the starring player in a sophisticated gratin?  Don't make the artisan potatoes laugh.

Except, the recipe below, originally printed in the much mourned late great Gourmet magazine, might have you thinking otherwise.  You might even serve this divine turnip gratin at your next chichi dinner party.

Turnip Gratin (available on epicurious.com)

2 tbs unsalted butter
2 1/2 lbs medium turnips, trimmed and left unpeeled
1 tbs chopped thyme
1/2 tbs chopped savory (*note: I have used dill instead of savory and often double the fresh herbs)
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
Rounded 1/8 tsp cayenne
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (use a microplane if possible)

Preheat oven to 450 degrees with rack in middle.  Melt butter in an ovenproof 12-inch heavy skillet, then cool.

Slice turnips paper-thin with adjustable-blade slicer (*I have done this with a good sharp kitchen knife with fine results), then arrange one third of slices, overlapping tightly, in skillet, keeping remaining slices covered with dampened paper towels.  Sprinkle with about 1/3 of fresh herbs, kosher salt, and cayenne.  Make 2 more layers.

Cook, covered, over medium heat until underside is browned, about 10 minutes.  Add cream and cook, covered, until center is tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

Sprinkle evenly with cheese, then bake, uncovered, until golden and bubbling, 10 to 15 minutes.  Let stand 5 minutes before serving.