Monday, May 30, 2011

Turnip curry from heaven.

There comes a time in the life of almost every CSA when suddenly, it seems that the only thing that the ground is turning up is turnips.  And not just a bushel here or there, but a bonafide swarm of these poker- faced root vegetables.  Suddenly, where there used to be none there are what seems like hundreds, tumbling out of cabinets and getting underfoot.  (And almost certainly confidently plotting their ultimate dominion, an upset of the natural order possible only because of their audacious numbers.  Think I am paranoid?  Just you wait until you are genuflecting before your turnip overlords.  That day could come, don't think it couldn't.) 

The only way to fight back is to consume, consume, consume, but generally these kinds of weeks end with me feeling defeated.  Here I have embraced the CSA because I claim I want to be forced to get creative with my vegetable eating, but I get completely stumped when you hand me a bucketfull of your garden variety turnips. 

Well, thanks to an amazing recipe from one of my favorite cookbooks, not only was I happy to discover a glorious band of tokyo turnips in our box this week, I am even hoping that next week we get so lucky again.  Try this recipe from Raghavan Iyer's magnificent 660 Curries and I think you will find that you feel the same way.


Turnips with Garlic & Cumin
From 660 Curries by Raghavan Iyer, Workman Publishing 2008

1 tsp cumin seeds (the recipe as written calls for black cumin seeds, but I have used ordinary cumin seeds with delicious results)
6 medium-sized garlic gloves, finely chopped
3 dried red Thai or cayenne chillies, stems removed
2 tbs canola oil
1 1/2 lbs turnips, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes
1 1/2 tsp coarse kosher or sea salt
1/4 tsp ground tumeric
1/4 cup firmly packed fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems

Combine the cumin seeds, garlic, and chilies in a mortar.  Pound the mixture with the pestle, scraping the sides of the mortar as needed to contain the ingredients in the center, to form a pulpy, gritty paste. (NOTE: I don't have a mortar and pestle, so I just threw all of these ingredients in the food processor and the end result was great.)

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium high heat.  Scrape the garlic-chili paste carefully into the oil and stir-fry until the garlic browns and the chilies smell pungent, 1 to 2 minutes.

Stir in the turnips, reduce the heat to medium, and cover the skillet.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until the turnips brown, 5 to 8 minutes.  The chilies will smell even more pungent, so do make sure you have adequate ventilation (*this is no joke).

Pour in 1 cup water and sprinkle in the salt and turmeric.  Scrape the bottom of the skillet to deglaze it, releasing any browned bits.  Once the liquid comes to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the skillet, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the turnips are tender-crisp, 20 to 25 minutes.

Fold in the mint and cilantro.  Simmer, uncovered, anointing the turnips with the sauce, until some of the liquid has been absorbed, 5 to 8 minutes.  Then serve.

*We served this tonight with red Bhutan rice, cilantro-mint chutney, and a side salad.  The range of flavors in this curry, particularly the combination of the slightly sweet turnips with the kick of the sauce, is really something to experience.  Highly, highly recommended.  Plus, how can you not adore a cookbook author that uses turns of phrase like "anointing the turnips with the sauce"?  Fantastic.



  

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